How to Apply Glycolic Acid on Your Face, According to Dermatologists

Trendy skin care ingredients can instantly go viral on social media, but the trending acid doesn't always come with an instruction manual. Wondering how to apply glycolic acid to your face? TikTok will tell you all about its multitasking superpowers, but we asked dermatologists exactly how to incorporate it into your daily routine.

What is glycolic acid?

If you want a complete crash course in glycolic acid and how it works, we've got your backbut as a quick reminder, “Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that gently dissolves the bonds that hold dead skin cells together.” Dr. Jeannette Grafsays assistant professor of clinical dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine. Glamor. “Thanks to its small molecular size, it penetrates quickly and deeply to help restore dull skin and accelerate cell turnover for a brighter, smoother complexion.”

So, what sets glycolic acid apart from other trendy chemical exfoliants such as azelaic acid or salicylic acid? “Of the AHAs, glycolic is the simplest in structure and the smallest; it has the lowest molecular weight.” Kenneth Howe, MDa dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York, previously told Glamor. Due to its small molecular weight, it is able to penetrate particularly deeply into the skin, which helps improve skin elasticity and fight acne, as well as break down dead skin cells on the surface.

How to Apply Glycolic Acid to Your Face

A quick search for glycolic acid products will appear. cleanserspeel pads and concentrates, so it's not easy to know where to start. When using any new skin care product, you need to adapt your application technique to your skin type and concerns. If you're new to glycolic acid, Dr. Graf says one rule is pretty universal: “Start by using it once or twice a week and build up as your skin adjusts. Using it too often can cause dryness or sensitivity,” she says.

Glycolic Acid for Sensitive Skin

If your skin is prone to irritation, Dr. Graf suggests looking for glycolic acid formulas with less than 10% glycolic acid for at-home use. The easiest way to check the situation is to wash your face. “A glycolic cleanser will help your skin get used to it, rather than diving straight into a leave-in glycolic product if you're not sure if your skin can tolerate it,” Alix Shapiro, a dermatologist at the clinic. heyday in New York told Glamor.

Dr. Graf also notes that for extremely sensitive, dry, or rosacea-prone skin, glycolic acid may be too harsh. “Gentler exfoliants, such as lactic acid or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), may be better options,” she says.

Glycolic acid for normal and acne-prone skin.

If your skin generally responds well to skin care acids (or if you have developed a tolerance), one of the most effective ways to administer glycolic acid is with a glycolic acid infusion. chemical peeling. You can opt for a medical peel at your dermatologist's office once a month or, more conveniently, use glycolic acid peel pads at home. Since they are less effective, they can be used two to three times a week.

“If you need something multitasking, Skinbetter Science AlphaRet Exfoliating Peeling Pads combine glycolic with lactic and salicylic acids for smoother, more radiant skin without irritation,” advises Dr. Graf. Charlotte Tilbury Super Radiance Resurfacing Facial to enhance radiance oily and combination skin types, “as it helps combat clogged pores and acne-prone skin.”

Exfoliating pads are especially easy to use because they are already soaked in the formula: simply take the pad with clean hands and swipe it over your face and neck. Avoid the eye area and be careful not to press too hard or rub. When using a bottled toner or glycolic acid solution, Dr. Tracey Evans, board-certified dermatologist and medical director Pacific Skin and Cosmetic Dermatology recommends using a cotton pad to apply the product (using the same method) as the first layer after cleansing the skin.

Another option is to use glycolic acid. mask: Dr. Evans suggests using once a week for about 10 minutes. Just make sure you rinse it off thoroughly and then apply barrier repair products.

While it may take a little trial and error to determine which application method works best for your skin care regimen, remember that you should only test one method at a time. Using glycolic acid at multiple points in your daily routine or using concentrated products every day “can lead to dry, irritated skin,” says Dr. Evans.

Combination of glycolic acid with other active substances

If you add an exfoliating acid to your formula, it's also important to balance it with hydrating and soothing counterparts. Glycolic acid works well with hydrating and barrier-repairing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and niacinamide,” says Dr. Graf.

On the other hand, if you already have a strong acid, e.g. retinol In your regimen, you generally should not mix it with a new glycolic acid product. According to Dr. Graf, using glycolic acid with other products that work on cell turnover “can overload your skin and lead to irritation.”

How long will it take to see results?

When you first start using glycolic acid, it is not uncommon to experience mild side effects. “It's common to experience mild tingling, dryness, or flaking at first, especially if you're new to exfoliating acids,” says Dr. Graf. If you notice severe irritation or redness, this is a sign to try a formula with a lower concentration of glycolic acid or reduce how often you use it.