Restaurant Review: Bartolo | The New Yorker

It was not terribly for a long time Spanish restaurants in abundance in this part of Manhattan, but in recent years there was a lot of numbers. El Faro, one of the oldest from the team, opened in 1927 and closed in 2012; Sevilla, which has opened several quarters from ten years or so, is still standing as one of the last old guard. This type of place was not a regional showcase, like a txikito chef of Alex Rydge, or ErnestoThe Basque restaurant on the Lower East -Side, ruled by Ryan Bartlow, chef -provar and the owner of Bartolo. It was also not a more free joint in the style of Spain, like Cervo's. Instead, it was in really, correctly and even a little in general Spanish Restaurant offering large pieces of meat; Rubin chips Iberian ham; Small dishes of dressed vegetables; clay Russian saladThis confusing, but a convincing Spanish-political-set main product; And Soul Rice is a perfectly brackish with a shrimp membrane smokedThese restaurants were not good, necessarily – they say, they often swayed on the edge of a completely bad one – but they had enthusiasm and style, as well as the paradoxical type of stationaryness of Louche, which made them irresistible.

Fortunately, in recent years, some promising signs of the return of this species with better food, this time, as in the updated El-Kzhijot, at the Chelsea Hotel, a dusty old joint, in recent years, as a brilliant place for high-ranking dinners. With Bartolo, Bartlow, it seems, establishes his own argument for the protection of nature: that Spanish food does not need rethinking; It just needs to be respected. The restaurant asks something about you, just as a good Spanish restaurant does it: you dress a little. You come on time. You get a cocktail And You get wine. You agree with the plate hamsilky and oily, or blood-black rounds of chopped black puddingBoth are served with chubby, similar to crackers Mr. Upophya It is imported from Spain Panadería Hesís and printed photogenically, with the Bartolo logo, and you and your dining companion happily look at each other in shining internal twilight twilight.