When Jas attended the Spilled Milk music festival in Canberra in December, she didn't expect to leave with a shiny new addition to her mouth: a jewel on her tooth.
The 23-year-old had never heard of tartar before, but when she came across a stall at a music festival, she couldn't resist.
She now wears a silver diamond on her left fang, which appears to be a “fashionable” spot.
Over the past few days, Jas has “really liked it” and may be getting a second gem, probably on a different dog. She says some of her friends are also considering getting gemstones for their teeth.
At the festival booth, people spent up to three hours on the waiting list for dental appointments. It was run by Ana Mihova, a dental technician who owns Canberra studio Wicked Grins. Mihov served about 55 clients that day, with each gemstone taking between five and 10 minutes to process. By 9 p.m., she had run out of supplies.
Two years ago, while living in London, Mihova received her first dental stones. “I just thought it was so different and cool and just the best thing ever, and I couldn’t believe I hadn’t discovered it sooner,” she says. Returning to Australia, she trained in Melbourne and became a technician.
Dental jewelry, including tartar and grilles, were a fixture in music videos in the late 1990s and early 2000s, but oral jewelry recent popularity not just with pop stars. Several Australian gem experts told Guardian Australia that demand has increased over the past 12 to 18 months.
Michov credits the resurgence to social media: “People continue to get a lot more attention from TikTok, Instagram and celebrities.”
On Instagram, the hashtag #toothgems has 905,000 posts, and on TikTok, the most popular gemstone videos have been viewed tens of millions of times.
Mihova runs a dental gem business while she studies for a master's degree in public health.
How safe are tartar?
Dr Evram Naruz, a dentist at enDental Studio in Sydney, says tartar “is not necessarily harmful, especially if it is placed by a dentist who understands bonding protocols and safety procedures.”
When used safely, tartar is attached using dental adhesive, the same adhesive commonly used for braces and fillings.
“It only becomes a risk when someone with qualifications is doing it,” Naruz says.
Australian Dental Association President Dr Christopher Sanzaro encourages consumers to discuss tartar with their dentist. “They can provide them to you or advise you on them.
“The risk of having dental stones installed by non-dental professionals is that the gemstone or adhesive can irritate the gums, which can lead to gum recession or gum infection.”
Naruz says the main risks occur when the technician doesn't use sterile equipment or applies too much adhesive, which can cause “a lot of plaque to be trapped around the area, which can sometimes lead to some demineralization of the teeth.”
Sanzaro warns, “Gemstones that are not properly attached to the surface of the tooth can come loose and cause other teeth to chip or crack if chewed.”
Naruz says gemstones should only be removed by a dentist and warns that “it may be more expensive to remove them than to put them on.” Removal by someone unqualified “can be quite dangerous,” he says.
IN Tik Tok videowhich has been viewed 350,000 times, American dentist Lulu Tan urges her patients not to remove gemstones from their teeth with pliers.
Michov is concerned that dental jewelery is poorly regulated in Australia and says it is “incredibly frustrating”.
“It really bothers me… I don’t want people to switch off because of one bad technology.”
Mikhov learned how to use gemstones through one-on-one training at Melbourne Tooth Gems. She supplemented her in-person learning with an online course and self-study. She says compared to many beauty treatments with Tafe certifications, current training in Australia is limited.
Ashlyn Carlisle is a dental calculus technician from Sydney who learned about dental calculus while traveling in London three years ago. Before opening her studio, she completed half a day of face-to-face training in the UK, followed by a self-paced online course in Australia.
Although some dental clinics offer dental calculus, they are more often used in beauty salons, tattoo studios, markets and temporary events where it can be difficult to judge how competent the technician is.
Carlisle says she's seen some “shocking” work and is concerned that people are trying to “make their own dental gems.”
Home gem kits are readily available online, and Carlisle has seen dangerous “gem hacks” on social media. “People even came to me [saying]: “Oh, I tried to make tartar at home and glued my nails”… and this is very dangerous.”
Sanzaro is also concerned: “The ADA’s position is that do-it-yourself dentistry should not exist.
“If you already have gemstones, don't hesitate to visit your dentist.
“Regular check-ups and preventative treatment are important, and your dentist is always available to offer advice and support.”
How long do dental gemstones last?
Michov and Carlisle say part of the appeal of accessories is their durability. Dental stones typically last between three months and one year, depending on placement and size, with smaller gemstones lasting longer. Once tartar reaches the end of its life, it usually just falls off.
Carlisle says dental gems are a “better alternative” to tattoos because they aren't a lifelong commitment; while Michov says they offer clients “good value for money” compared to beauty services such as eyelash or nail extensions, which need to be maintained every few weeks.
Most of Mikhov's clients are women in their 20s and come from a variety of professions.
In Australia, the cost to install a round Swarovski crystal dental stone is around $70, while solid 18k gold dental jewelry costs between $140 and $150.
Gems can also be arranged in the shape of hearts, stars and flowers. “They can be sweet, graceful and sophisticated, or they can be bold and edgy,” says Mikhov.
