In international politics, not every message is conveyed through speeches or formal agreements. Sometimes it arrives on a plate. A new analysis of 457 Portuguese state menus spanning more than a century shows that state dinners often had a diplomatic message woven into their dishes.
Published in Frontiers in Political ScienceThe research shows that these menus quietly shaped international relations by signaling political priorities, strengthening alliances, and expressing national identities in ways that words alone could not.
“These dinners play an important role as diplomatic institutions in the conduct and continuity of Portuguese foreign policy,” said Oscar Cabral, the paper's first author, in his article. press release. “They demonstrate how culinary and gastronomic practices facilitated diplomatic negotiations and provided opportunities for cultural exchange, political messages and the transmission of Portuguese culture.”
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Shifts in the state menu
Portugal's public menu has changed along with the country's political priorities. In the early 20th century, formal banquets drew heavily on French haute cuisine. However, by the Estado Novo era, Portugal began to highlight its own regions and ingredients, a shift that culminated with the “regional dinner” in 1957 for Queen Elizabeth II. Subsequent decades brought new signals: rare dishes such as turtle soup and Azorean trout emphasized exclusivity, while in the post-colonial period references to empire gradually disappeared from menus.
In recent years, messaging has become even more direct: the names of the dishes themselves reflect the issues on the agenda.
“Menus can be intentionally designed to convey political messages and convey non-gastronomic aspects,” Cabral explained. “For example, at the COP25 dinner in Madrid, dish names such as “Warm Seas” were used. Imbalance in nutrition” and “Urgent. “Minimize Animal Protein” to Raise Climate Awareness.”
What 457 Diplomatic Dinners Reveal
For this study, the team analyzed 457 diplomatic menus from 1910 to 2023, treating each one as a political document. They recorded who attended, how the courses were structured, where ingredients were received and how the dishes were described.
From this data set, the researchers identified five different diplomatic roles. Tactical nutrition marked sensitive visits or territorial transitions. Geopolitical dinners reaffirmed alliances in Europe and within NATO. Economic diplomacy dishes emphasized ingredients related to trade or export markets. Food in the fields of science, culture and development united Portugal with common projects. And the cultural proximity of the dinners strengthened ties with Portuguese-speaking countries.
“To strengthen these connections, the menu deliberately includes products that are closely related to the overall national gastronomy, such as Cozido à Portuguesa (Portuguese stew) or cod recipes,” Cabral said in a press release.
Case studies have shown how these features affect what ends up on the plate. Culturally proximate dishes relied on salt cod, stews and familiar regional foods to signal a shared heritage. Economic diplomacy dinners focused on products related to major export sectors, such as wines or gourmet foods. seafood. Geopolitical meals often maintained a formal Franco-European structure—clear broths, fish appetizers, subdued desserts—to demonstrate stability and continuity to the Allies.
When a dish shapes a nation's brand
The authors argue that food deserves a place alongside language, values and traditions in how Portugal presents itself to the world.
“Our research shows how ethnic cuisines can be strategically used to strengthen a country's global standing,” Cabral said.
The analysis is limited by gaps in the historical data, and some menu options, such as the roast beef served to the President of India in 1990, remain unexplained. However, the results suggest that what a nation serves can shape how it is seen long after the plates have been cleared.
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