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Our cookbook of the week is
by Sami Tamimi.
Jump to the recipes:
smoky
chickpeas with cilantro tahini
,
with eggs, and
with preserved lemon yogurt.
, the 2012 cookbook Palestinian-British chef, food writer and restaurateur
co-wrote with fellow Jerusalemite, Israeli-British chef
, changed the way Westerners cook. It inspired cookbook clubs, buying herbs by the armload, stocking spice drawers with sumac and pantries with preserved lemons and pomegranate molasses. Tamimi co-founded the
deli and restaurant group in 2002 with Ottolenghi and Noam Bar. During the pandemic, after nearly two decades managing kitchens, Tamimi stepped away from day-to-day operations. (He remains a silent partner.)
“I have a wonderful 20 years, and to think that I changed the way people eat around the world, this is something that I cherish.”
Boustany (Appetite by Random House, 2025) is Tamimi’s first solo effort, after also co-authoring Ottolenghi (2008) with Ottolenghi and
(2020) with Tara Wigley. Coming out as it did during the second year of the Israel-Hamas war in Gaza, the timing was meaningful. “This is my way of basically talking about a lot of things that you can’t really talk about. Even if you try to do it in an article or a novel, or in a history book, people might or might not read it. But with cookbooks, we all understand the language of food. We all understand cooking and sharing, and eating, and how basic it is. But also, at the same time, connect people in a way that you can actually talk about a lot of things through food and through recipes, from the traditions to the culture, to a bit of history or a lot of history.”
Striking out on his own has allowed Tamimi more time to spend with his partner, Jeremy, collaborate, consult and do charity work. “And, I discovered again the beauty of writing. I really enjoyed the fact that Boustany all came from my own kitchen at home.” He says he feels a strong focus now — not just on recipes but on where they came from. There’s a new specificity. A recognition that regions such as the Middle East aren’t monoliths but a mosaic of varied food cultures and different ways of cooking. “This is the beauty of writing a cookbook as well. And for me, as a Palestinian, I can talk about the struggle but also the beauty of it.”
Boustany, which means “my garden” in Arabic, came together organically. In spring 2020, Tamimi and Jeremy loaded up their two dogs and left their home in London, England, for Umbria, Italy. What they intended to be a break from the city ended up being the better part of a year. Though Tamimi talked to his family regularly, homesickness hit him hard. He longed for the food, the flavours, the connection with his siblings and the surroundings.
“Umbria’s climate is very similar to Palestine and to Jerusalem. It was a time of reflection and a lot of thinking, but also I went out and started foraging for things.” Growing up, his parents, Hassan and Na’ama, took Tamimi and his siblings up into the hills, where they harvested greens, herbs and berries. Talking to his sister about dishes from their childhood and bringing the sometimes humble and simple recipes to life gave him relief. The notes he took during that time became the basis for Boustany.
“It’s a document in recipes, the culture, my personal memories. But also, I grew up there, and I have some beautiful memories — I mean, some bitter as well, but the focus here is to keep them alive. And also for the next generation of people that are Palestinian and have never been to Palestine, or they don’t have the shared memories for them to connect with that as well.”
SMOKY CHICKPEAS WITH CILANTRO TAHINI
Hummus Hab bil Tahinia w al Kuzbara
Serves:
4 as a side or part of a spread
2 x 14-oz (400-g) cans of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
4 tbsp olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
1/2 tsp Aleppo chili flakes (or regular dried chili flakes)
1/2 tsp sweet paprika
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
Salt
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 recipe tahini sauce (
)
1 1/2 cups (30 g) fresh cilantro, chopped, plus a few more leaves to garnish
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 425F (220C).
Step 2
Put the chickpeas into a medium bowl with the olive oil, spices and a heaping 1/4 teaspoon of salt, and mix well. Spread the chickpea mixture on a parchment-lined baking dish and roast for 30 minutes, stirring a couple of times. Remove from the oven, sprinkle with the lemon juice, mix and leave to cool.
Step 3
Place the tahini sauce and cilantro in a blender or food processor and mix for a couple of minutes, until they form a smooth paste.
Step 4
When ready to serve, spread the tahini sauce on a serving plate, pile the chickpeas in the middle and garnish with a few cilantro leaves and a drizzle of olive oil.
TAHINI SAUCE
Tahinia
Makes:
a small jar
Rounded 1/2 cup (150 g) tahini paste
1/2 cup (120 mL) cold water
3 tbsp lemon juice
1 small garlic clove, crushed to a paste
Salt
Step 1
Put the tahini into a small bowl, along with the water, lemon juice, garlic and a heaping 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Use a spoon or a small whisk to mix the ingredients until they are completely combined and form a thick and pourable paste. Taste and adjust the seasoning by adding more lemon juice and salt.
Step 2
Store in an airtight container or jar. The sauce will keep for up to a week in the fridge.
EGGPLANT AND FAVA BEANS WITH EGGS
Bitinjan w Ful ma’ Beyd
Serves:
4
2 medium eggplants (around 1 lb 6 oz/630 g)
1/3 cup (80 mL) olive oil, plus more to serve
Salt and black pepper
1 onion, finely chopped (1 1/4 cups/175 g)
6 garlic cloves, crushed to a paste
1 small piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated (3/4 oz/20 g)
1 green chili, finely chopped, seeds and all (3/4 oz/20 g)
1 tsp chili flakes
1 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 1/2 tsp tomato paste
2 plum tomatoes, chopped into 3/4-inch (2-cm) chunks (10 1/2 oz/300 g)
1x 14-oz (400-g) can of diced tomatoes
1x 14-oz (400-g) can of fava beans, drained
1 1/4 cups (300 mL) water
3/4 cup (15 g) fresh cilantro, roughly chopped, plus more to serve
4 large eggs
1/4 cup (30 g) sumac onions (
)
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 450F (230C).
Step 2
Cut the eggplants into 1 1/2-inch (4-cm) chunks and place in a large bowl. Mix well with 2 1/2 tbsp (40 mL) of the oil, 1/2 teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper, then spread out on a large parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast for about 25 minutes, or until completely softened and lightly browned. Remove from the oven and set aside.
Step 3
While the eggplant is roasting, make the sauce. Put the remaining oil into a large sauté pan and place over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook for about 7 minutes, until softened and lightly browned. Add the garlic, ginger, green chili, chili flakes, spices and tomato paste and cook for another minute, or until fragrant. Add the chopped tomatoes, canned tomatoes, fava beans, water, 1 1/4 teaspoons of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Decrease the heat to medium and cook for 15 minutes, or until the sauce thickens.
Step 4
Add the eggplant chunks and cook for 3 minutes more. Stir in the cilantro, then decrease the heat to medium-low. Make 4 wells in the sauce and crack an egg into each well. Use a fork to gently swirl the egg whites a little bit, taking care not to break the yolks. Simmer gently for 7-8 minutes, until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still runny. You can cover the pan with a lid for the last few minutes (to speed up the process).
Step 5
Leave to settle and cool for a couple of minutes, then garnish with the sumac onions, additional cilantro, a drizzle of olive oil and a little salt on the eggs.
SUMAC ONIONS
Basal bil Sumac
Makes:
a medium-size jar
1 large red onion, cut in half, then each half thinly sliced
1 1/2 tbsp sumac
7 tbsp (100 mL) apple cider vinegar
7 tbsp (100 mL) water
3 tbsp lemon juice
Salt
Step 1
Pack the sliced onion into a 16 oz (400 mL) lidded jar. Add the sumac and set aside.
Step 2
Place the vinegar, water, lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of salt in a medium bowl and whisk well until the salt has dissolved. Pour the vinegar mixture over the onions, cover the jar and give it a gentle shake.
Step 3
The onions are ready to eat the next day. Store them in the fridge for up to 3 weeks.
COUSCOUS FRITTERS WITH PRESERVED LEMON YOGURT
Aqras Kosukson
Serves:
4
2 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped (1 1/4 cups/160 g)
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 tbsp red pepper paste (
)
1 red bell pepper, finely chopped (7 oz/200 g)
4 very ripe tomatoes, cut into 1/4-inch (1/2-cm) dice (12 oz/ 350 g)
3 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely grated (1 2/3 cups/185 g)
5 1/4 oz (150 g) couscous
1 cup (220 mL) boiling vegetable stock
1 egg
1/4 cup (34 g) cornstarch
1 tbsp lemon zest
1/4 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil, for frying
For the preserved lemon yogurt:
1/2 cup (150 g) Greek yogurt
1 tbsp preserved lemon, finely chopped
1 tbsp capers, finely chopped
1 tbsp fresh dill, finely chopped
1 tsp fresh mint leaves, finely shredded
Salt and black pepper
Step 1
Start by making the preserved lemon yogurt: put all the ingredients into a medium bowl, along with 3/4 teaspoon of salt and a grind of black pepper. Whisk well, then cover and store in the fridge until needed.
Step 2
Pour the olive oil into a 12-inch (30-cm) sauté pan and place it over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often, until it has softened but not coloured. Stir in the tomato paste and red pepper paste and cook for 1 minute. Add the red pepper, tomatoes, 1 teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper and cook for 3 minutes. Add the carrots and cook for another 3 minutes.
Step 3
Add the couscous to the pan and stir well. Add the hot stock and stir again, then cover the pan. Lower the heat and allow to cook for 10-12 minutes, until all the liquid has been absorbed and the couscous has softened and swelled.
Step 4
Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Add the egg, cornstarch and lemon zest and mix well. Form into 12-13 patties (2 1/4 oz/60 g each), about 2 1/2-inches (6-cm) wide and 1 1/4-inches (3-cm) thick.
Step 5
Heat the oven to 400F (200C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Heat the sunflower oil in a large nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat and cook the patties for 3 minutes on each side, until golden. Place on the prepared baking sheet and cook in the oven for a further 5 minutes, until piping hot inside.
Step 6
Serve warm, with the preserved lemon yogurt and a salad.
RED PEPPER PASTE
Dips al Filfil
Makes:
a small jar
4-5 large red peppers (2 lb 2 oz/1 kg)
2 tbsp olive oil, plus more for sealing
6 large red chilies, trimmed and roughly chopped (4 1/4 oz/120 g)
1 1/2 tsp sweet paprika
1 1/2 tsp ground cumin
2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
Salt
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 450F (230C).
Step 2
Place the peppers on a parchment-lined baking sheet and toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until completely softened and charred. Transfer to a bowl, cover with a plate and set aside to cool for about 20 minutes. Once cool enough, remove and discard the skin, stems and seeds. Place the peeled peppers in a colander over a bowl and set aside for 30 minutes to drain. Discard the liquid.
Step 3
Turn the oven down to 350F (177C).
Step 4
Place the roasted peppers in a food processor, along with the chilies, the remaining tablespoon of oil, the spices, vinegar and 1 tablespoon of salt. Blitz for 2-3 minutes, until the mixture forms a smooth paste. Transfer the paste to a parchment-lined baking sheet and spread it out evenly. Bake for 1 hour, stirring a couple of times, until the paste has thickened.
Step 5
Spoon the paste into a 16-oz (500-mL) sterilized lidded jar and pour over enough oil to seal. Cover and cool slightly, then store in the fridge for up to 2 months. You can also portion the paste into small, sealable bags or use an ice-cube tray for easy access straight from the freezer. It’s all about making your life easier in the kitchen.
Recipes and images excerpted from
Boustany: A Celebration of Vegetables from my Palestine
by Sami Tamimi, copyright ©2025. Published by Appetite by Random House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.
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