Cop30 live: US looms over talks despite absence as protests at venue continue | Cop30

Jonathan Watts

A fluvial adrenalin rush flooded into the COP30 host city of Belém on Wednesday morning with the arrival of a flotilla of more than 100 boats, carrying indigenous activists, forest defenders and other civil society campaigners.

Singing, chanting and waving flags and banners declaring “Fight for the Right to Life” and “No to Soy!”, the demonstrators made their presence evident on the river as they are expected to do on the streets in the coming days.

Organisers said 5,000 people from 60 countries were participating in the “Boats for Climate Justice Flotilla,” which converged on Guajará Bay close to the University of Pará, which will be the venue for a “People’s Summit” that runs for several days alongside the main climate talks.

Members of the Raoni tribe join hundreds of other indigenous activists and forest defenders to protest at Cop30
Members of the Raoni tribe join hundreds of other indigenous activists and forest defenders to protest at Cop30 Photograph: Pablo Porciúncula/AFP/Getty Images

Activists said they are already staging four events a day in Belém, the first COP host city in several years to encourage civil society participation.

Most of the events have been colourful and peaceful, but on Tuesday night there were scuffles in the conference centre when a group of several dozen indigenous and non-indigenous activists burst into the Blue Zone, where they were confronted by UN security guards.

More than 10,000 civil society activists are expected at COP30. They are united in their desire to protect nature and the rights and territory of traditional peoples. But there are many different strategies and focal issues, ranging across anti-dam protesters, river defenders, campaigners against agro-toxins, environmental justice advocates, demarcation supporters, and groups calling for direct payments to forest people for their role in maintaining globally important biomes.

In the flotilla, The Guardian counted at least 102 vessels, including Greenpeace’s Rainbow Warrior and the Imperatriz on which this reporter arrived in Belém. The organisers said 200 would take part over the course of the event. They have come from all parts of South America and Europe.

On board the main vessel of the “Answer Caravan,” which has travelled over 3,000 kilometers from the main Soy-growing region of Mato Grosso, carriyng more than 300 indigenous, riverine, quilombola and peasant leaders.

Among them was Maya-Lou Kayapo, who had spent the past six nights sleeping on a hammock. “We are here to resist the threats to our land from agribusiness and mining. We want to protect our territory from invasions and destruction,” she said over the din of chanting.

The ship was festooned with banners, highlighting the many threats to the Amazon, a globally important ecosystem that, scientists warn, been pushed close to the point of no return by human activities. : “We are the frontline of the climate crisis”, “Clean rivers without mining”, “Soy destroys”, “Demarcation now!”, “No Hydrovia!” (A reference to a contentious plan to turn the Tapajos and other rivers into a traffic corridor for soy barges.”

Several participants said they were united behind the vision of a “great cobra” – a dream spirit that has become a symbol of protest and has now taken physical form in a 50-metre-long inflatable snake. In Portuguese, the word “cobra” also means payment

Sarah Rodrigues, from the Volte Grande region of the Xingu river basin.carried a banner bearing the slogan: “Snake People” “The Cobra is the guardian of our campaign,” she said. “Financial support needs to go directly to the traditional peoples who protect the forest, not to the extractivist industries.”

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Aseel Mousa

Brazilian Bruno Zanette, 26, is currently pursuing a Master’s in Eco Design. This year, he is attending COP with the Climate Clock, a global movement calling for action on the climate emergency.

“My motivation to attend COP began when I heard, back in 2023, that Brazil would host it. I’ve since tried to align my activism toward this moment. For me, COP isn’t just about negotiations — it’s a space for connection, listening, and learning from activists around the world. It’s where strategies are shared and where I hope to strengthen international bridges for climate action.

Bruno Zanette is one of thousands of young activists attending this year’s climate summit Cop30 Photograph: supplied

“The main climate challenges facing Brazil are deeply interconnected. In my home state, Rio Grande do Sul, we faced Brazil’s worst flooding ever in May 2024, which killed over a hundred people and destroyed entire communities. It showed how climate change, combined with poor preparation and the weakening of environmental protections, can devastate even wealthy regions. Across the country, droughts, deforestation, and new agribusiness-driven laws are worsening the situation.

“At this COP, I don’t expect miracles from negotiations, but I hope we’ll use this moment to ignite real awareness in Brazilian society and push for the country to embrace its potential as a genuine climate leader — not an oil producer expanding into the Amazon.”

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